Quick summary of Dubai. First, its hot as hell. Humid, and sweltering
hot. Second, its like being in star wars. When you arrive, you feel
like you are on the sand planet where they just landed and decided to
built a city. You can't see anywhere on account of all tv dust and
building pollution. Technologically its way ahead of everyplace else
municipally speaking, aside from the lack of public transport. Unlike
other cities with rapid development where they are catering to demand
with a goal in mind, Dubai just builds under the expectation of a
field of dreams type scenario that if you build it, they will come.
After visiting so many crumbled empires and seeing the ruins leftover
and imagining the past excesses of cultures, I couldn't help feeling
that in hundreds of years people will look back on something like the
Burj Al Arab and saying- "this place was the most luxurious place on
earth one day, but now all that's left is the swimming pool and the
skeleton... Look that used to be a helipad!" or something like that.
It could be a paradise, objectively its got great coastline, etc. But
the backward concept of its development is tough to wrap your head
around, particularly when you see it in person. The idea is basically
they'll provide all you could ever want, so leave the inadequacies of
your home and head to Dubai. It will be fascinating to see what the
future holds, especially since they are already nervous about their
proximity to Iran, should war break out there. Seems a bit risky.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Adiós Africa
Boarding a flight to Dubai on my way back to NYC so I can check out
fantasy land for a day.
fantasy land for a day.
Africa was amazing. Spent today up in wine country outside Cape Town
- pretty nice way to wrap things up here. Looking forward to gettng
home very much though. We'll see what the middle east has to offer
though...
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
The skinny on Zimbabwe
So we ended up spending 4 days in Zimbabwe, unexpectedly, and it was
really an amazing experience learning about the current situation
here. We were in a horrible lodge in Nabibia, our incredible travel
company, CC Africa, literally had us out of there in 20 minutes (which
is unbelievable when you understand Africa a little) and back to one
of their lodges which have proven to be absolutely outstanding in
every way possible. Can't even begin to tell you. Here is how I
understand things in Zim though, given the conversations we had with a
bunch of people here, unverified by any other sources:
really an amazing experience learning about the current situation
here. We were in a horrible lodge in Nabibia, our incredible travel
company, CC Africa, literally had us out of there in 20 minutes (which
is unbelievable when you understand Africa a little) and back to one
of their lodges which have proven to be absolutely outstanding in
every way possible. Can't even begin to tell you. Here is how I
understand things in Zim though, given the conversations we had with a
bunch of people here, unverified by any other sources:
Zimbabwe used to be Rhodesia and after 15 years of fighting for
independence they gained independence in 1980 and became Zimbabwe.
Mugabe took over and for 20 years the country prospered ad was maybe
the most stable and prosperous economy in all of Africa. In or around
2000 though all the veterans of the war for independence started
griping (20 years later mind you) demanding the land they had been
promised for fighting for the independence. Mugabe and the rest of the
government were under pressure and what ensued me to the current
situation.
Most of the farms at the time were large commercial farms run by white
Zimbabweans, producing vast exports and carrying the entire national
economy through agriculture and the use of all of the country's
infinite natural resources. Unfortunately, these commercial farms came
under siege during a massive and violent land grab. It's unclear how
directly the government participated in actually taking control of the
land and granting it to certain people, but its very clear that they
took no steps to protect the farmers who were forced out. These huge
sources of commerce all of a sudden became idle lands, since the
people who took over the land were just either squatters or high up
government connected people who made no use of their resources and
simply looked for ways to exploit it through allowing hunting and
things like that or by simply producing agriculture to be self
sufficient rather than the commercial lands they had been. With no
products or anything at all being exported or even created, the entire
economy literally collapsed. Not to mention the widespread famine due
to the sudden halt in agricultural production. That's why you hear now
about inflation at 5million percent... The inflation makes the
currency totally worthless. Ten years ago the Zim Dollar was on par
with the U.S. Dollar, now it is literally impossible to convert it
since it changes exponentially by the day but its somehere around 2
billion to one, but tomorrow it will be much worse. You can't pay by
credit card since on the time it takes to process the transaction the
ammount you paid will literally be a fraction of the price you were
supposed to pay (a charge of 100 billion Zim Dollars today - ~$50 -
tomorrow would be worth maybe half that and by the time the receiver
collects it will be probably worthless).
Currently the people are amazingly hopeful and just generally among
the most likeable a friendly people you will ever meet. I've
obviously been a lot of places on this trip and they stood out as
maybe my favorite. Thy are ubiquew in that they come from such a
prosperous place historically and they are all well educated and proud
of their land but just not their government. The country is also
totally peaceful (aside from the ongoing issues with the land grabs)
in the towns and cities in most of the land. However, for the country
to ever stabilize it will almost necessitate some sort of violence to
overthrow the government or else the economy cannot reform. There is
more potential in Zimbabwe than maybe anyplace on earth, proven by the
past, but until someone comes in and capitalizes on the resources to
spur agriculture and commerce, they're screwed. Its very sad.
The time here is yet another example of how important visions places
like this is. Had we known the plans, there is no chance we would have
come to Zimbabwe just because of the way the nation is viewed back
home and the well documented instability here. Having been, I think it
will probably go down as the most important place to see during the
whole trip.
Namibia
I take back my comments from yesterday. Namibia is pretty brutal. The
scenery is pretty but there is absolutely nothing to do outside of a
short boat cruise, which actually was great to see herds of elephants
right up close. But after a totally awkward and strange village tour,
including a totally uncomfortable dance show that felt like being at a
bad strip club, we're ready to get the hell out of here. The dirt was
littered with condom wrappers and beer bottles and there was just a
strange vibe to the place this morning...
scenery is pretty but there is absolutely nothing to do outside of a
short boat cruise, which actually was great to see herds of elephants
right up close. But after a totally awkward and strange village tour,
including a totally uncomfortable dance show that felt like being at a
bad strip club, we're ready to get the hell out of here. The dirt was
littered with condom wrappers and beer bottles and there was just a
strange vibe to the place this morning...
The longer you're in Africa, the more you understand just how messed
up it is. Nothing is done easily, and we were spoiled when we first
arrived by the amazing welcome and amazing hospitality and treatment
at our first lodges. The difference in having fully qualified and
experienced people leading you around, not for the luxury of it but
the ammount you learn from them, is pretty remarkable.
Trying to figure out a revised plan at this point...
Africa intense
So we sent the past 2 days in Zimbabwe, unexpectedly... There to see
Victoria Falls, which incidentally was very very cool, our hotel was
on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezie river. Zim is, as I'm sure anyone
is well aware, not the most stable of places and we didn't take notice
of the hotels location when booking. The hotel itself was really cool,
like a step back in time to the days of British colonial rule with all
types of old photos, game trophys and other British historical
paraphenalia. However, it was very clear that they are experiencing a
downturn in tourism. It seemed to be a place on the brink, teetering
between luxury and just enough to get by. They are still going out of
their way to be a fine hotel, but little things made you aware that
they are struggling under the political instability. It will be very
interesting to see what happens in Zimbabwe over the next months and
years, because this place of such historical significance might just
disappear if the country doesn't right itself. I wish I could make
these comments with more relevance to the people living in Zimbabwe,
rather than through the description of a 4 star hotel, but we didn't
(and couldn't) really see much evidence of the hardship directly
traveling as we are. I'd like to come back to Africa on my own without
the worries associated with traveling as a family and have a chance to
see what life is really like outside the tourist destinations.
Victoria Falls, which incidentally was very very cool, our hotel was
on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezie river. Zim is, as I'm sure anyone
is well aware, not the most stable of places and we didn't take notice
of the hotels location when booking. The hotel itself was really cool,
like a step back in time to the days of British colonial rule with all
types of old photos, game trophys and other British historical
paraphenalia. However, it was very clear that they are experiencing a
downturn in tourism. It seemed to be a place on the brink, teetering
between luxury and just enough to get by. They are still going out of
their way to be a fine hotel, but little things made you aware that
they are struggling under the political instability. It will be very
interesting to see what happens in Zimbabwe over the next months and
years, because this place of such historical significance might just
disappear if the country doesn't right itself. I wish I could make
these comments with more relevance to the people living in Zimbabwe,
rather than through the description of a 4 star hotel, but we didn't
(and couldn't) really see much evidence of the hardship directly
traveling as we are. I'd like to come back to Africa on my own without
the worries associated with traveling as a family and have a chance to
see what life is really like outside the tourist destinations.
With that said, however, we did experience a bit of real Africa today
en route to our next lodge. Traveling by van from our hotel in
Zimbabwe, we passed through the border into Botswana and then
Namibia... Border crossing in Africa is interesting to say the least.
Crossing into Botswana meant a standard entry form, followed by a
"disease stop" which required us to step on a wet dirty towel with our
shoes while the van drove through some kind of dirty puddle to make
sure we didn't carry foot and mouth disease with us... It was like a
joke. Then a few minutes later we got t the riverside where we loaded
into an aluminum boat with all our bags and headed to the Nambian
border checkpost, which was a small room on a random island on the
river then back onto the boat to get to our lodge on another island 45
minutes away. My country tally is now at 9 since leaving the US,
flight tally is at 16...
I think this lodge will be cool and we'll be seeing a whole different
type of wildlife, mostly hippos, crocs, buffalo and elephants, versus
the more land oriented creatures of Phinda.
I am getting excited to be a week away from home, if for no other
reason than having a new set of clothes to change into. An opportunity
to get some exercise (not possible in Africa unless hotel has a gym)
and a real slice of pizza... Solo travel was also SO much easier than
traveling with our whole family. When I was alone there was just one
person to please with everything, and I think I'm pretty easy to
please, versus 5 people with varying levels of adventure tolerance and
desire for real exploration rather than just pampering in exotic
locales.
Into the lions den
I'm over my antisocial phase and back to normal in that sense. Safari/
Africa continue to be beyond all expectations. The extravagance of our
lodge experience and the incredible guides we had for our game drives,
being able to wake up in the morning, go out into the bush and come
across black rhinos 10 feet from the vehicle and then cruise over to
see lionesses eating a freshly killed zebra fully in their element is
just about the coolest thing of all time. Last night we had drinks by
sunset, watched 3 female lions absolutely stalk and in formation track
prey through a flatland for about an hour then on the way back to the
lodge race to catch a leopard on the move was among the most fun
things of all time. We keep waking up exhausted and not wanting to go
out, then totally awakened and excited by all that surrounds you.
Start to finish, if this isn't the trip of a lifetime then I've got
some good stuff to look forward to in my life because its been about
the most incredible trip I could have imagined, beyond my own high
expectations going in.
Africa continue to be beyond all expectations. The extravagance of our
lodge experience and the incredible guides we had for our game drives,
being able to wake up in the morning, go out into the bush and come
across black rhinos 10 feet from the vehicle and then cruise over to
see lionesses eating a freshly killed zebra fully in their element is
just about the coolest thing of all time. Last night we had drinks by
sunset, watched 3 female lions absolutely stalk and in formation track
prey through a flatland for about an hour then on the way back to the
lodge race to catch a leopard on the move was among the most fun
things of all time. We keep waking up exhausted and not wanting to go
out, then totally awakened and excited by all that surrounds you.
Start to finish, if this isn't the trip of a lifetime then I've got
some good stuff to look forward to in my life because its been about
the most incredible trip I could have imagined, beyond my own high
expectations going in.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Some quick highlights from the first 4 days of Safari in Phinda, as we prepare to head to Jo-burgh for a day of rest and recharging:
3 male lions prowling around a dozen hippos by the side of a dam, while in a standoff with their father - the dominant male of the pride. Roaring back and forth, we looked for and found the father, up close and personal licking his wounds from a battle earlier in the day.
Black Rhino tracking on foot. We finally located the 3 Rhinos in a thicket, and we didn't realize it while looking at 2 off in the thicket about 20m away, the bull was about 10 feet away from us on the other side of a tree prepared to charge if we advanced any further. After seeing the animal up close a few days later, we realize how close we came to trouble since these things are not friendly and not social...
Last night we set out to see more lions and after drinks at sunset watching 2 rhinos, 6 zebras and about 8 giraffes wander through the bush we found 3 female lions on the hunt. They were stalking something with incredible tact, like watching navy seals or something. Finally gave up following after an hour or so but it was incredible drama to see from about 15 feet away at times. We then darted back to the lodge at about 50mph through the trees to catch sight of a leopard walking down the trail. Very rare and very cool to see for that area.
3 male lions prowling around a dozen hippos by the side of a dam, while in a standoff with their father - the dominant male of the pride. Roaring back and forth, we looked for and found the father, up close and personal licking his wounds from a battle earlier in the day.
Black Rhino tracking on foot. We finally located the 3 Rhinos in a thicket, and we didn't realize it while looking at 2 off in the thicket about 20m away, the bull was about 10 feet away from us on the other side of a tree prepared to charge if we advanced any further. After seeing the animal up close a few days later, we realize how close we came to trouble since these things are not friendly and not social...
Last night we set out to see more lions and after drinks at sunset watching 2 rhinos, 6 zebras and about 8 giraffes wander through the bush we found 3 female lions on the hunt. They were stalking something with incredible tact, like watching navy seals or something. Finally gave up following after an hour or so but it was incredible drama to see from about 15 feet away at times. We then darted back to the lodge at about 50mph through the trees to catch sight of a leopard walking down the trail. Very rare and very cool to see for that area.
Africa
Africa - in the bush, no phone, no internet, no blog... til now.
Arrived in Africa early Sunday morning and was met by everyone there. We eventually made our way from Johannesburg to Pinda Game Reserve after a 2 hour prop plane ride and were brought to Rock Lodge - 6 bungalows built into a small mountain - which was spectacular and so nice to see once we arrived. The long day's travel was well worth it. After a quick shower and lunch (overseen by a group of monkeys) we went out for a game drive and were overwhelmed by the sites. Zebra, Nyala, Warthog, Wildebeest, Giraffe, Crocodile, etc. etc.. The site of these animals in the wild is just so cool.
The game drives go for 3-4 hours and you just explore all over searching for new cool animals to observe all along the way, but I'd be perfectly content if we didn't even see animals, the views of the landscape are that amazing. THe days are long and exhausting, even if the safari lodge experience is about the most relaxing experience imaginable. Amazing lodging, amazing food ALL the time, amazing sights, and incredible service and people. Not to mention the lack of internet/phone/tv/communications so you are totally cut off from any possible stress of unwanted distractions.
I had a tough time the first few days adjusting to time changes, jet lag, new foods and maybe most of all being surrounded by people (namely, my family) all the time. After over a month of growing so accustomed to constant inner monologue with zero dependence on interacting with others, it's been hard to adjust to the company. I have been very quiet and not really noticing it myself until I'm called out on it by everyone constantly. The exhaustion of the traveling hasn't helped either. I am just so used to listening rather than speaking myself, that the change has been dramatic. Its now, as well, that I start to pick up on some of the changes in myself during this time on the road. It's hard to describe how specifically, but I feel as though (other than my current sociability) I've improved in a lot of ways and I wonder if that becomes evident to others over time or if I'll end up reverting. It seems like now I've come back to life, however, at the very least.
Arrived in Africa early Sunday morning and was met by everyone there. We eventually made our way from Johannesburg to Pinda Game Reserve after a 2 hour prop plane ride and were brought to Rock Lodge - 6 bungalows built into a small mountain - which was spectacular and so nice to see once we arrived. The long day's travel was well worth it. After a quick shower and lunch (overseen by a group of monkeys) we went out for a game drive and were overwhelmed by the sites. Zebra, Nyala, Warthog, Wildebeest, Giraffe, Crocodile, etc. etc.. The site of these animals in the wild is just so cool.
The game drives go for 3-4 hours and you just explore all over searching for new cool animals to observe all along the way, but I'd be perfectly content if we didn't even see animals, the views of the landscape are that amazing. THe days are long and exhausting, even if the safari lodge experience is about the most relaxing experience imaginable. Amazing lodging, amazing food ALL the time, amazing sights, and incredible service and people. Not to mention the lack of internet/phone/tv/communications so you are totally cut off from any possible stress of unwanted distractions.
I had a tough time the first few days adjusting to time changes, jet lag, new foods and maybe most of all being surrounded by people (namely, my family) all the time. After over a month of growing so accustomed to constant inner monologue with zero dependence on interacting with others, it's been hard to adjust to the company. I have been very quiet and not really noticing it myself until I'm called out on it by everyone constantly. The exhaustion of the traveling hasn't helped either. I am just so used to listening rather than speaking myself, that the change has been dramatic. Its now, as well, that I start to pick up on some of the changes in myself during this time on the road. It's hard to describe how specifically, but I feel as though (other than my current sociability) I've improved in a lot of ways and I wonder if that becomes evident to others over time or if I'll end up reverting. It seems like now I've come back to life, however, at the very least.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Pre flight surprise
on the river in front of the hotel before I left tonight. Nice touch.
On to Africa
My solo mission through Asia comes to an end today, as I catch a
redeye flight just after midnight tonight into Johannesburg to meet
the family for Safari. I've grown quite accustomed to this time alone
and while I am very excited to see everyone (and Africa) its a little
bittersweet that the Jake only adventure is coming to a close. I've
been saying how much I'm looking forward to relinquishing the driver's
seat on this tour and sitting shotgun finally, but I have to say that
the excitement of the unknown that surrounded each arrival and step of
the way on this ride has been very fun.
redeye flight just after midnight tonight into Johannesburg to meet
the family for Safari. I've grown quite accustomed to this time alone
and while I am very excited to see everyone (and Africa) its a little
bittersweet that the Jake only adventure is coming to a close. I've
been saying how much I'm looking forward to relinquishing the driver's
seat on this tour and sitting shotgun finally, but I have to say that
the excitement of the unknown that surrounded each arrival and step of
the way on this ride has been very fun.
I've learned more than I think I even realize on this trip so far and
feel fortunate for the variety of people and cultures I've had the
chance to interact with along the way. Its crucial, I think, for
everyone to have time like this on their own to give themself a chance
to clear your head and get to know yourself and the unknown that's out
there, not to mention build confidence in your own independence and
ability to handle the unexpected. I am going to try not to allow
myself to get too comfortable being in the group stage on Africa,
since the most important aspects of the trip so far have been my
interactions with people purely resulting from my solitude.
Japan seems like a long time ago in a number of ways and its
interesting to look back at my experience there as I began the process
of adjusting to this lifestyle. The experience there seemed like a
look into the future, while china was more a feeling of hope that
their world doesn't become the future. Vietnam was essentially a step
into the past and a great history lesson, while Cambodia was more of a
glimpse at what I suspect the present is like in much of the
developing world. Finally, Thailand, tough to judge off just
Bangkok... But the tpur of the Grand Palace today was impressive, if a
little strange for some reason. I'll save the real judgement for
future visits to more peaceful spots here.
Excited to see what Africa's all about tomorrow, and to be surrounded
by groups of people not from Asian decent. Nothing against them in
general, but after a month of it, I'm ready for some geographic
diversity...
Friday, May 23, 2008
Vegas is not sin city
Bangkok is. This place is the seediest place I've ever seen. Just so sketchy all over. Every cab I've gotten has had the driver after I get in say that rather than go to the place you instruct they will take you to a body massage joint, which are essentially glorified brothels. You need to insist they take you to your destination anyhow and just shut then up. Grim scene.
I'm going to try to get out in the morning tomorrow to at least see if there's some proper culture here, because aside from the Jim Thompson house, I've only seen sleaze outside the hotel grounds and every time I come back it's just a huge relief to know nobody is scamming you or trying to bring you to a whore house...
Had dinner tonight at a place called BED supperclub where you eat on beds from a surprise, set menu with some sort of show and dj's, etc. I went off hotel and friend recommendations with this one and it was actually pretty cool and the food was really good. After the meal you go to Bed Bar, which is a club in the same building, but I am so weirded out by the whole scene with old men folowing around young thai girls and the unknown 'ladyboy' factor and the fact that all thai girls look 16 at best I couldn't even stay for a drink. There was a blond girl at dinner seated at the next bed over with 2 dudes and all I could think was how I miss being home and being shot down by girls like her in NYC...
Hopefully I'll have a successful day of proper touristing tomorrow before a late flight to Africa, officially ending the solo run here in Asia. See some pics of the day's less grimy activities below.
I'm going to try to get out in the morning tomorrow to at least see if there's some proper culture here, because aside from the Jim Thompson house, I've only seen sleaze outside the hotel grounds and every time I come back it's just a huge relief to know nobody is scamming you or trying to bring you to a whore house...
Had dinner tonight at a place called BED supperclub where you eat on beds from a surprise, set menu with some sort of show and dj's, etc. I went off hotel and friend recommendations with this one and it was actually pretty cool and the food was really good. After the meal you go to Bed Bar, which is a club in the same building, but I am so weirded out by the whole scene with old men folowing around young thai girls and the unknown 'ladyboy' factor and the fact that all thai girls look 16 at best I couldn't even stay for a drink. There was a blond girl at dinner seated at the next bed over with 2 dudes and all I could think was how I miss being home and being shot down by girls like her in NYC...
Hopefully I'll have a successful day of proper touristing tomorrow before a late flight to Africa, officially ending the solo run here in Asia. See some pics of the day's less grimy activities below.
Monsoon
When it rains in this part of the world it RAINS... Last night I
headed out for dinner and after a great pad thai & spring roll dinner
the rain started. I snagged a taxi to one of the night areas but it
was just stupid since I was just not prepared for the weather at all.
The whole city flooded and after a little while out I called it quits
and headed home.
headed out for dinner and after a great pad thai & spring roll dinner
the rain started. I snagged a taxi to one of the night areas but it
was just stupid since I was just not prepared for the weather at all.
The whole city flooded and after a little while out I called it quits
and headed home.
Today, after waking up early to watch the Celtics game (7:30am tip)
and having an awesome breakfast buffet riverside at the hotel. The
rain came back in a big way as I was headed to the Royal Palace by
water taxi so I headed to Jim Thompson house which is a very cool
house constructed by a Princeton grad and former CIA guy here who is
credited for discovering and building the reputation of the Thai silk
trade. The house is pretty sweet but the guided tour is painful.
Hoping the rain is done now and I can get out tonight for some fun
without getting soaked.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Cambodia Recap and Bangkok Arrival
Cambodia was an incredible place to visit. Its a developing nation in every way and I couldn't be more impressed with the people and the sights. For being as corrupt at the top as I'm told it is, the people just seem happy to be living without genocide and civil war and go out of their way to welcome you. Even the littlest things like random people just saying hello as you pass by distinguish the place. Additionally, they jus have such character in personality and looks. Some of the women would be drop dead beautiful models if they weren't all about 5 feet tall. I'm glad I made it when I did because this place will be discovered (and ruined I suspect) very soon, and already has shown signs of this eventual discovery since they are building hotels like crazy in Siem Reap - so I suggest everyone book tickets asap... All in all a great visit though.
So I arrived in Bangkok from Siem Reap and just getting to the city isn't without its own set of adventures. Finding cabs was hard enough, but the one I wound up in turned out to be some strange relay where one guy passes me on to his buddy in a fully tinted volvo who then drove me to the side of the highway to pass me off to his buddy in a celica to take me to the hotel. Sketchy as best... And after being out way too late last night watching the Champions League finals at a bar in town I'm in bad shape to handle it. The celica driver is just some dude as it turns out looking to make a buck through this relay system and has no clue about anything or where the hotel is so we sit in traffic in Bangkok for about an hour before he finds out where he's meant to take me and I finally made it. It was worth the wait... staying at the Mandarin Oriental here, which could possibly be the nicest hotel I've ever stayed at. You don't check in in the lobby, you're escorted to your room where you check in at your desk with a personal receptionist. I have a butler. When I went to the gym, they all knew my name and I just arrived. It's over the top, and because of the ML corporate rate I'm paying the same amount I paid to stay at the Hilton in Ithaca a couple months ago... One other feature that is minor is the fact I have a scale in the bathroom which confirmed my suspicion that I've lost a ton of weight here, 10 lbs officially. Not because I haven't enjoyed the food either, just you only eat 3 times a day and everything is just fresh and healthy and you get only enough to make you not hungry anymore, not to fill you up. Just interesting, I thought. Time to see what this town has to offer now, I'm expecting madness given what I've heard.
So I arrived in Bangkok from Siem Reap and just getting to the city isn't without its own set of adventures. Finding cabs was hard enough, but the one I wound up in turned out to be some strange relay where one guy passes me on to his buddy in a fully tinted volvo who then drove me to the side of the highway to pass me off to his buddy in a celica to take me to the hotel. Sketchy as best... And after being out way too late last night watching the Champions League finals at a bar in town I'm in bad shape to handle it. The celica driver is just some dude as it turns out looking to make a buck through this relay system and has no clue about anything or where the hotel is so we sit in traffic in Bangkok for about an hour before he finds out where he's meant to take me and I finally made it. It was worth the wait... staying at the Mandarin Oriental here, which could possibly be the nicest hotel I've ever stayed at. You don't check in in the lobby, you're escorted to your room where you check in at your desk with a personal receptionist. I have a butler. When I went to the gym, they all knew my name and I just arrived. It's over the top, and because of the ML corporate rate I'm paying the same amount I paid to stay at the Hilton in Ithaca a couple months ago... One other feature that is minor is the fact I have a scale in the bathroom which confirmed my suspicion that I've lost a ton of weight here, 10 lbs officially. Not because I haven't enjoyed the food either, just you only eat 3 times a day and everything is just fresh and healthy and you get only enough to make you not hungry anymore, not to fill you up. Just interesting, I thought. Time to see what this town has to offer now, I'm expecting madness given what I've heard.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Waterworld adventure
The relaxing boat ride on the lake was anything but this afternoon...
The midday rain storm came and went much faster than yesterday so
after getting a little wet in the temples today I headed for a boat
tour of the floating village. The ride from the temples was simple
enough until we reached a stretch of road being redeveloped into some
sort of pier (for what I have no clue - its barely a river) that had
been absolutely wrecked by the rainfall. My tuk tuk wasn't outfitted
for off road so we detached it and rode 2 on the motor bike until we
hit a mud patch and it sid out from under us so I was left to walk the
remainder of the way - a distance described at "1 kilomet". It took
me about 45 minutes. Ankle deep mud in my rainbow sandals that either
suctioned with every step forcing me to yank my feet or slid all over.
It was like a practical joke. I didn't see a single other foreigner
the whole route through this totally impoverished village that
linedthe road side with the river on one side and the rice fields on
the other and all the homes (thatch palm leaf huts) on stilts 20 feet
high anchored in one or the other. Naked kids running around swimming
in the mud all around me and all sorts of random busy work being done
by the grown ups (6 and up) and anyone under 5 just saying "one dolla"
as I walked by with their hands out and a big joking smile. I was the
main picture target in this scene but was just trying to snap pics at
whatever I saw. It was total insanity. The long walk finally got me to
the "dock" where I boarded a long woodeb motor boat rigged up to a car
engine and some type of prop.
The midday rain storm came and went much faster than yesterday so
after getting a little wet in the temples today I headed for a boat
tour of the floating village. The ride from the temples was simple
enough until we reached a stretch of road being redeveloped into some
sort of pier (for what I have no clue - its barely a river) that had
been absolutely wrecked by the rainfall. My tuk tuk wasn't outfitted
for off road so we detached it and rode 2 on the motor bike until we
hit a mud patch and it sid out from under us so I was left to walk the
remainder of the way - a distance described at "1 kilomet". It took
me about 45 minutes. Ankle deep mud in my rainbow sandals that either
suctioned with every step forcing me to yank my feet or slid all over.
It was like a practical joke. I didn't see a single other foreigner
the whole route through this totally impoverished village that
linedthe road side with the river on one side and the rice fields on
the other and all the homes (thatch palm leaf huts) on stilts 20 feet
high anchored in one or the other. Naked kids running around swimming
in the mud all around me and all sorts of random busy work being done
by the grown ups (6 and up) and anyone under 5 just saying "one dolla"
as I walked by with their hands out and a big joking smile. I was the
main picture target in this scene but was just trying to snap pics at
whatever I saw. It was total insanity. The long walk finally got me to
the "dock" where I boarded a long woodeb motor boat rigged up to a car
engine and some type of prop.
From there we rode along a channel lined by a floating elementary
school house boat and a floating basketball gym, before letting out
into the lake which was totally kevin Costner waterworld. Hundreds of
houseboats floating starting about a half mile off shore. Floating
school, supermarket (relative term), church, mechanic. It was totally
loco.
Got dropped off at a floating fish farm with unnamed fish, gators,
pythons... Then back to the boat rode back to the "town". At one
point a girl jumped onto my boat with a full cooler of beer soaking
wet offering cold Angkor beer for $2. I was so stunned I had to buy one.
Once back ashore I quickly nabbed an off road tuk tuk (dirt bike rear
tire and heavy duty trailer hitch) that zipped me back to my more
luxurious street tested chariot back to the hotel. Just a wild day
from beginning to,especially, end. On to Bangkok around 1:00 tomorrow
where I plan to just relax poolside most of the afternoon. I feel I
deserve it after today...
Pics of the mayhem forthcoming...
Peace and Quiet
Spending time in these temples is about the ultimate relaxation.
Without a guide today I'm just cruising around by tuk tuk (basically a
canopied love seat towed by a scooter) which is sweet since its just
cool breeze and amazing scenery all around you. Each temple complex is
so unique so you get out, wander around a bit, take some pica an then
on to the next. It is very, very hot. Sitting in the sun, as I am
now, you just start pouring sweat, but up and moving around its not
bad. After a couple more temples today I'll be done with what's
reasonable to see given the time at hand and then I'm going to spend
the rest of the afternoon at a floating fishing village on the lake
south of town which I hear I'd amazing as well.
Without a guide today I'm just cruising around by tuk tuk (basically a
canopied love seat towed by a scooter) which is sweet since its just
cool breeze and amazing scenery all around you. Each temple complex is
so unique so you get out, wander around a bit, take some pica an then
on to the next. It is very, very hot. Sitting in the sun, as I am
now, you just start pouring sweat, but up and moving around its not
bad. After a couple more temples today I'll be done with what's
reasonable to see given the time at hand and then I'm going to spend
the rest of the afternoon at a floating fishing village on the lake
south of town which I hear I'd amazing as well.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Temple Pics
As promised, pictured from the Angkor temples. The temple area is pretty amazing. Just TONS of old temples. Some you'll see have been preserved or are in the process of being preserved, others are left to nature (ie the one with the trees growing all through it). Seeing how big the temple area is, how large the temples are and how impressive the ruins are, in it's prime this place had to have been absolutely unparalleled anywhere in the world. The detail in the construction is mindblowing. Every wall in every temple has these incredibly intricate and detailed ancient carvings of battle tales, etc., and they are about the largest buildings you've ever seen with massive man made moats surrounding them and incredible walls and entrances.
The temples have been the scene of so much conflict over the past 800 years from battling the Champa's (sp) to the Vietnamese, to the Thais to the Mongols to more recently acting as a refuge for the Kmer Rouge. Plus you see all these empty places that used to be occupied with buddhas that were all taken out when one of the kings believed in hinduism rather than buddhism, and there must have been thousands upon thousands of these buddhas that no longer are in place. At any rate, I'm afraid the pics don't fully do the place justice, they really can't possibly, but it will give you a little taste of it. More temples early in the morning tomorrow then going to a floating village before Bangkok thursday.
The temples have been the scene of so much conflict over the past 800 years from battling the Champa's (sp) to the Vietnamese, to the Thais to the Mongols to more recently acting as a refuge for the Kmer Rouge. Plus you see all these empty places that used to be occupied with buddhas that were all taken out when one of the kings believed in hinduism rather than buddhism, and there must have been thousands upon thousands of these buddhas that no longer are in place. At any rate, I'm afraid the pics don't fully do the place justice, they really can't possibly, but it will give you a little taste of it. More temples early in the morning tomorrow then going to a floating village before Bangkok thursday.
Siem Reap-diculus
Arrived last night in Siem Reap in the northern part of Cambodia. This
place has clearly been discovered... Still very cool though. The feel
here is that of a ski resort in every way, except in place of ski
mountains they have the Angkor temples to occupy everyone during the
day. At night there is a street called "Pub Street", pretty self
explanatory. Lined with a dozen or so bars with dollar beers and pool
tables and dancing, etc. I've decided that pool is the ultimate social
device when your traveling solo. I met a group of people on the table
last night- British, japanese & San Diagoan and lingered til late just
sharing travel stories. Its the ultimate backpacker/tourist spot.
People head out to the temples all day, come back, relax and regroup
(apres temple, if you will) before early dinners and drinks. The bar
did have a number of 'professional' ladies lurking in the back and a
number of skeevy looking, desperate dudes of all ages there to sit
with them silently on their lap before stealthily executing an exit to
god know where with them. I found entertainment just watching this
pathetic dynamic and sticking to the tables.
place has clearly been discovered... Still very cool though. The feel
here is that of a ski resort in every way, except in place of ski
mountains they have the Angkor temples to occupy everyone during the
day. At night there is a street called "Pub Street", pretty self
explanatory. Lined with a dozen or so bars with dollar beers and pool
tables and dancing, etc. I've decided that pool is the ultimate social
device when your traveling solo. I met a group of people on the table
last night- British, japanese & San Diagoan and lingered til late just
sharing travel stories. Its the ultimate backpacker/tourist spot.
People head out to the temples all day, come back, relax and regroup
(apres temple, if you will) before early dinners and drinks. The bar
did have a number of 'professional' ladies lurking in the back and a
number of skeevy looking, desperate dudes of all ages there to sit
with them silently on their lap before stealthily executing an exit to
god know where with them. I found entertainment just watching this
pathetic dynamic and sticking to the tables.
After an early wakeup I headed out to the temples, which are
spectacular. I cant stop snapping photos (evidence later). All about
800 years old an in varying states of ruin. I have a guide who's a bit
of a fruit, but is full of good information and so helpful here. If
just left on my own I'd be totally lost. We jumped into a row of food
stalls for lunch just before the afternoon downpour started, and it is
cats & dogs right now, as I write. The food here, along with
everyplace else I've been, is awesome. No matter where you go, street
stall or fancy place (which is in relative terms here) the quality is
so high and everything is super fresh and healthy. It will be hard
readjusting to greasy U.S. meals when I get back.
Hoping this rain quicky passes so I can get back to exploring. It is
very nice to have it cool down some though. The sticky heat is like
NYC in July and not so comfortable, but all my Patagonia gear has done
the job so far.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Tired
I expect this message will be received by most with little if any
sympathy, but I am pretty exhausted from this whole trip. I'm en route
to the Phnom Penh airport now to head up to Siem Reap to explore the
legendary temples there, but a month on the road living out of a
suitcase with half dirty clothes, 9 flights, 4 time zones, endless
decision making and miles and miles of walking takes its toll. Not
that there's really anyplace I'd rather be, but it will be nice to get
to Africa this weekend and have some time to just sit back and relax
(feels weird saying that), because aside from a few hours at the beach
in Hoi An, relaxation has been in short supply.
sympathy, but I am pretty exhausted from this whole trip. I'm en route
to the Phnom Penh airport now to head up to Siem Reap to explore the
legendary temples there, but a month on the road living out of a
suitcase with half dirty clothes, 9 flights, 4 time zones, endless
decision making and miles and miles of walking takes its toll. Not
that there's really anyplace I'd rather be, but it will be nice to get
to Africa this weekend and have some time to just sit back and relax
(feels weird saying that), because aside from a few hours at the beach
in Hoi An, relaxation has been in short supply.
On a trip like this there seems to be a built in pressure to fit in as
much as possible and always be aware of what's around you (for your
own well being as much as experiencing the environment). I am very
excited about these temples in Angkor though, been looking forward to
this for a while.
Kmer Rouge killing fields
This morning I took a tuk tuk down to the killing fields outside the
city - an incredibly scary place. The site of 86 mass graves, still in
evidence as they have not been filled in, and other chilling sights
like a tree that was used to sling babies against to kill them before
they were put in the graves with their mothers. Its impossible for me
to imagine how people can become so taken over and brainwashed into
performing atrocities like this. Along with the remnants of the
genocide is a monument filled with excavated sculls, bones and clothes
from over 8,000 bodies uncovered there.
city - an incredibly scary place. The site of 86 mass graves, still in
evidence as they have not been filled in, and other chilling sights
like a tree that was used to sling babies against to kill them before
they were put in the graves with their mothers. Its impossible for me
to imagine how people can become so taken over and brainwashed into
performing atrocities like this. Along with the remnants of the
genocide is a monument filled with excavated sculls, bones and clothes
from over 8,000 bodies uncovered there.
Unlike the holocaust, however, this I'd pretty recent history,
occuring from 1975-78 or so, meaning most of the people here lived
through the time and can give first hand accounts of what it was like
here at the time. Additionally, the short life of the Pol Pot regime
in power mars the scale of the genocide that much more difficult to
comprehend. All of this horror occurred during about a 3 year period.
The road leading to the area is lined with trash and poverty but the
people seem to have enough to get by and as I've mentioned are
universally very pleasant to deal with. Polite, respectful, kind.
Plus the river areas outside the city are spectacular to see. If you
can't tell already, I like Cambodia a lot...
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Kampuchea
I've made it to Cambodia and so far its a pretty amazing place. Seems
more impoverished and third world than anyplace I've been yet. Phnom
Penh is a pretty city and the people so far have lived up to their
reputation as being exceedingly friendly and great. I'm sitting at the
balcony at the bar at FCC overlooking the river. Its hot but breezy
and people are lining the river side promenade strolling and just
hanging out, enjoying the end of their weekend.
more impoverished and third world than anyplace I've been yet. Phnom
Penh is a pretty city and the people so far have lived up to their
reputation as being exceedingly friendly and great. I'm sitting at the
balcony at the bar at FCC overlooking the river. Its hot but breezy
and people are lining the river side promenade strolling and just
hanging out, enjoying the end of their weekend.
When I arrived here I made my way over to the Tuol Sleng genocide
museum which was about the creepiest place you can imagine. Its
essentially Cambodia's version of Auschwitz and walking into the cells
and seeing the pictures of the thousands of people who were killed
under Pol Pot was chilling to say the least. While I did say how nice
it is here, it is sort of a sad place because you have this history
looming over it and there are far more strangely crippled people
around the streets, etc.
This bar though is very cool, such an old traveler feel with jazz
music in the background. I'd been warned that Phnom Penh was not a
relaxing place to air back and enjoy the scenery. That warning seems
to have been misguided. Hoping to meet some Americans I've been set up
with here later on at the bar they own right by my hotel (which is
very cool and mellow).
I'll head out to see the killing fields as well as the silver pagoda
in town before an evening flight to Siem Reap and the temples of
Angkor.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Aggressive and over the top
I'm at the gate for my flight to Phnom Penh now and on the TVs there
are showing Platoon totally uncut... Just totally ridiculous. Super
violent and aggressive and in your face, not to mention the subject
matter. Just unneeded as you get ready for a flight...
are showing Platoon totally uncut... Just totally ridiculous. Super
violent and aggressive and in your face, not to mention the subject
matter. Just unneeded as you get ready for a flight...
Hanoi vs. Saigon & Nam overall
After a huge failure trying to get some exercise today by any means
(the hotel staff from the spa to the reception desk gave blank stares
all around when I asked about a jogging route in the city) I write
while sitting in a nice restaurant/lounge called Temple Club in Saigon
on my last night in Vietnam. It was a brief but very eye opening stop
in this city and country, and I'd recommend anyone from the U.S. visit
to get a look at our own history through someone else's eyes. Between
Saigon and Hanoi, Saigon is by far the more sophisticated of the two,
yet it still seems stuck in neutral and has none of the feel of a
modern city despite their obvious ongoing efforts. The physical city
is actually very nice, with wide open tree-lined streets, a number of
parks and some interesting architecture. Unfortunately this is all
leftover from the French rule here and is pretty much despised by the
people who've been trained to view anything from that time as
oppressive and bad - which by all accounts it was. However, its by and
large a population that seems stuck in the 70's dropped into this
pretty, old place and it makes no realistic attempt to cater to the
tourism it seems to crave. They just don't really seem to get it.
(the hotel staff from the spa to the reception desk gave blank stares
all around when I asked about a jogging route in the city) I write
while sitting in a nice restaurant/lounge called Temple Club in Saigon
on my last night in Vietnam. It was a brief but very eye opening stop
in this city and country, and I'd recommend anyone from the U.S. visit
to get a look at our own history through someone else's eyes. Between
Saigon and Hanoi, Saigon is by far the more sophisticated of the two,
yet it still seems stuck in neutral and has none of the feel of a
modern city despite their obvious ongoing efforts. The physical city
is actually very nice, with wide open tree-lined streets, a number of
parks and some interesting architecture. Unfortunately this is all
leftover from the French rule here and is pretty much despised by the
people who've been trained to view anything from that time as
oppressive and bad - which by all accounts it was. However, its by and
large a population that seems stuck in the 70's dropped into this
pretty, old place and it makes no realistic attempt to cater to the
tourism it seems to crave. They just don't really seem to get it.
Hanoi, on the other hand, seems to have a better understanding of what
it is and where it stands. Its not as civilized a feel as the physical
city of Saigon but its much more charming, despite the numerous
communist displays. At least the communism there seems to fit the
surroundings. Communism could never have built a city like Saigon and
a restaurant like this simply cannot exist there, I don't think.
Hanoi is just grittier, but on the whole, I think I like it better
(though I'm not saying I'm ready to pack my bags and move to Vietnam
by any means).
Then you have Hoi An, a town that I suspect in a year or two will look
like Vietnamese Disneyland, or an Epcot center version of things given
all the construction taking place there to make the place a "nicer"
tourist destination. Its funny how all the money that goes into
preserving a place like that does just the opposite. I'm glad I got
there when I did and that I saw the beach before it got taken over by
developers the way the entire coast from there to Da Nang has.
All in all, a very cool study of culture here. I expect Cambodia will
only offer more lessons when I arrive tomorrow in Phnom Penh. My
Aussie tour friends today said the people there, as much as the
sights, are a wonder of the world, so I'm excited to meet them...
Man Field Hockey
Quick cultural/sporting note:
There must be some big man field hockey tourney going on right now
since you can't escape watching it on there ESPN channel everywhere
you go. I'd heard a lot about man field hockey being some way cooler
version of the girls game (like womens vs mens lax). Its not. Its
just as boring and lame as you'd imagine it would be.
VC Tunnels
This morning I joined a pair of older couples from Adelaide on a tour of the Cu Chi Viet Cong tunnels about an hour outside Saigon. Pretty amazing stuff. You'll see from the photos just how cramped these things were (they were enlarged from 30cm wide to 50cm wide for tourists) and you cannot really tell from the photos just how miserable it was inside. Its stuffy and absolutely unlit, pitch black. I crawled for about 175meters until I realized there was nothing to see crawling any further and got out but just to be in these places and appreciate the engineering and craftiness of these people makes you understand how impossible it would have been to combat them. The tour guide spoke with a tough accent which was difficult to understand and had trouble controlling the VOLUME OF HIS VOICE at times which made it even tougher to get what he was saying, but you could pick up the key facts.
In addition to walking (shuffling/crawling) through the tunnels you saw the complexity of their construction and a bunch of torture devices/booby traps on display. I also shot a few rounds with a M-30 Machine gun which was kind of cool and deafening. I am going to need to get a better historical perspective on the war now that I've visited here and gotten the Vietnamese take. My limited understanding makes it difficult to grasp their characterization of the norther troops 'liberating' the south. Further reading will be needed when I get back home I suppose.
Enjoy the pics, because they were not as enjoyable to be in as it looks from my smiles...
I should also mention that the timing of this trip has become more and more interesting given our election since I've been asked a number of times for my thoughts on what's going on back home and had varying opinions from people mostly depending on what country they're from. The Aussies today were for McCain overall but though Hillary was the better of the 2 democrats for her possible international relations and viewed Obama as being way too weak to handle difficult international conflicts. The Dutch I met in Hoi An were fully for Obama, however. Interesting times.
In addition to walking (shuffling/crawling) through the tunnels you saw the complexity of their construction and a bunch of torture devices/booby traps on display. I also shot a few rounds with a M-30 Machine gun which was kind of cool and deafening. I am going to need to get a better historical perspective on the war now that I've visited here and gotten the Vietnamese take. My limited understanding makes it difficult to grasp their characterization of the norther troops 'liberating' the south. Further reading will be needed when I get back home I suppose.
Enjoy the pics, because they were not as enjoyable to be in as it looks from my smiles...
I should also mention that the timing of this trip has become more and more interesting given our election since I've been asked a number of times for my thoughts on what's going on back home and had varying opinions from people mostly depending on what country they're from. The Aussies today were for McCain overall but though Hillary was the better of the 2 democrats for her possible international relations and viewed Obama as being way too weak to handle difficult international conflicts. The Dutch I met in Hoi An were fully for Obama, however. Interesting times.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Saigon first night
Had a very cool dinner tonight at a restaurant called Ngom. The place is basically this open air restaurant surrounded by a patio packed with communal tables of 4 lined on the outside with stations of chefs all cooking up various sorts of Vietnamese foods. The guide book described it like they went around poaching the best street chefs from all over Vietnam and gave them a spot in the restaurant to cook from, and it seems to characterize it perfectly. It was a pricey meal by Nam standards ($9) but well worth it. One thing worth noting from the meal is apparently the Vietnamese eat shrimp shells and all. I got some sort of vietnamese version of a quesadilla and the shrimp inside were steamed and unpeeled, so I just 'when in Rome'd' it and dug in.
On my way back I stopped by a bar by the hotel I'd read about that looked cool but inside the crowd was essentially all foreign dudes and dressed up Vietnamese ladies which just felt creepy to me but probably is exactly what most tourists here are shooting to find. It was "Construction Night" though so that may have impacted the draw? I bailed since in the morning I am up early to shoot out to a tour of the Cu Chi tunnels from the Viet Cong days and shoot AK-47 machine guns...
On my way back I stopped by a bar by the hotel I'd read about that looked cool but inside the crowd was essentially all foreign dudes and dressed up Vietnamese ladies which just felt creepy to me but probably is exactly what most tourists here are shooting to find. It was "Construction Night" though so that may have impacted the draw? I bailed since in the morning I am up early to shoot out to a tour of the Cu Chi tunnels from the Viet Cong days and shoot AK-47 machine guns...
Moto Noise
I really can't overstate how noisy this place is. The noise of the
motobikes would be enough to have the place at a constant roar, but
the constant and unnecessary horn honking is maddening.... Just had to
emphasize this.
motobikes would be enough to have the place at a constant roar, but
the constant and unnecessary horn honking is maddening.... Just had to
emphasize this.
War Museum, tough scene
I'm writing from Saigon after an afternoon flight down from Da Nang.
After a quick bite, I headed to the war remnants museum which is
brutal. Room by room you get a step by step history lesson in pictures
and statistics of the Vietnam war beginning with the French efforts
and ending with the US portion. Its obviously fascinating to see the
way the war is depicted here and the way our efforts are
characterized. The first thing you see in the whole place is a quote
from Secretary of Defense MacNamara saying how the war was a mistake,
to give you some perspective, before going through a timeline of the
wars and the death tolls of US soldiers by group. That's followed by
essentially a memorial/tribute to the photographers of the war
praising their efforts to capture the images so that the events are
remembered. Most, if not all, of the photographers featured were
killed while covering the war, which is kind of chilling. In the
square that the museum sits on, there are a bunch of old US tanks,
planes & helicopters on display, alongside stats on their destructive
capabilities.
After a quick bite, I headed to the war remnants museum which is
brutal. Room by room you get a step by step history lesson in pictures
and statistics of the Vietnam war beginning with the French efforts
and ending with the US portion. Its obviously fascinating to see the
way the war is depicted here and the way our efforts are
characterized. The first thing you see in the whole place is a quote
from Secretary of Defense MacNamara saying how the war was a mistake,
to give you some perspective, before going through a timeline of the
wars and the death tolls of US soldiers by group. That's followed by
essentially a memorial/tribute to the photographers of the war
praising their efforts to capture the images so that the events are
remembered. Most, if not all, of the photographers featured were
killed while covering the war, which is kind of chilling. In the
square that the museum sits on, there are a bunch of old US tanks,
planes & helicopters on display, alongside stats on their destructive
capabilities.
Then things get gnarly. There is a huge room dedicated to displaying
the effects of war crimes inflicted, such as the use of agent orange.
The pictures turn your stomach, but not so much as the dead fetuses
stored in preservative jars on display. I wish I was joking. Its so
disturbing. You finally work through some replicated torture chambers
with equally revolting imagery and end up in a room displaying posters
of support for the Vietnamese efforts from around the globe.
Aside from the images and history you pick up, I'm most struck by the
way many of the Vietnamese visitors to the museum aren't somber in the
least and if anything view this place as a great display of their
conquering our aggression. Its like a celebration of sorts for them.
Also, after visiting china and having some perspective on their
communist ideas and how twisted they are, it seems odd to see pictures
celebrating the union of Ho Chi Minh and Mao since my impressions of
Mao from my China time were so overwhelmingly negative and I can't
imagine someone being celebrated for aligning with such a figure.
Anyhow, this was the first of a succession of pretty depressing
experiences I expect to find over the next couple days.
I will say that the city of Saigon is incredibly more civilized that
Hanoi and is actually sort of nice, aside from even more motobikes
everywhere lined up at stoplights in scenes that look identical to the
start of the marathon. Hope to have some pics up later on. I will also
say the thing I miss most about home is not being bothered by people
when you walk around. Since I left Japan, all these communist places
(HK was different) are teeming with people hitting you from every
angle trying to sell you something, ride you somewhere, whatever. I
can't stand it. There is no concept of people knowing what they're
after on their own so people just figure they'll put things in front
of you and hope you take them up on it. The markets are prime example
of this since its just a sea of things in no particular order
whatsoever. So I'll appreciate that aspect of America in a couple
weeks most, I think.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
America not too popular
One thing I've noticed, as I sit here in a bar in Hoi An surrounded by
fellow travelers and communist propaganda, is the fact that I haven't
met a single American on this trip that's been traveling as well.
Sure, the girl I met at the airport yesterday was American, but she
lives in Honduras. Plus, being in an environment like this, the people
I meet (aside from
the Irish who are simply happy and super nice and Aussies who are
just out for a good time) are very curious to feel out my national
pride. My biggest concern in Nam was how the locals would react to an
american given the past (overall amazingly warm and welcoming) not the
way other foreigners would react to the present. Maybe I was naive
regarding this, but I was surprised neverthelesss.
fellow travelers and communist propaganda, is the fact that I haven't
met a single American on this trip that's been traveling as well.
Sure, the girl I met at the airport yesterday was American, but she
lives in Honduras. Plus, being in an environment like this, the people
I meet (aside from
the Irish who are simply happy and super nice and Aussies who are
just out for a good time) are very curious to feel out my national
pride. My biggest concern in Nam was how the locals would react to an
american given the past (overall amazingly warm and welcoming) not the
way other foreigners would react to the present. Maybe I was naive
regarding this, but I was surprised neverthelesss.
Decided to head to Saigon tomorrow for the weekend before Cambodia
Sunday afternoon for most of the week. Hoi An's been great though.
Endless possibilities
I'm sitting at lunch in Hoi An and realizing that for the next week
and a half or so I can basically go anywhere, which is a pretty
incredible feeling. Deciding between stopping off in another city en
route to Saigon, heading straight to Saigon, or skipping out of
Vietnam and going to Cambodia (or even Laos) and stopping off in
northern Thailand before Bangkok. The possbilities are pretty amazing
and I'm sure I can't miss. Going to grab my SE Asia guide on the way
to the beach here and try to sort out a plan for tomorrow.
and a half or so I can basically go anywhere, which is a pretty
incredible feeling. Deciding between stopping off in another city en
route to Saigon, heading straight to Saigon, or skipping out of
Vietnam and going to Cambodia (or even Laos) and stopping off in
northern Thailand before Bangkok. The possbilities are pretty amazing
and I'm sure I can't miss. Going to grab my SE Asia guide on the way
to the beach here and try to sort out a plan for tomorrow.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Hanoi insanity & Hoi An tranquility
Below I finally have some pics from Nam. Including the insanity of Hanoi - a grim city with not a whole lot to offer if you ask me aside from a view of what communist Vietnam central is all about (notice the huge Lenin statue yet wimpy police man). I decided upon arrival to minimize my time there and get to more tranquil surroundings since I've been in crazy cities the whole time and was ready to chill. I found it in Hoi An. This place is mellow and grimy and fantastic so far. The $17 hotel room fits my needs (free wifi is a bonus after a $20/day charge for ethernet in HK) and I am finally meeting other travelers, as I expected. Not tomention, free breakfast. So it's perfect, although in a discussion on the beach in HK we were talking about some of the benefits D1 athletes gain from their experience and I came up with another one while cleaning up here - the ablility to take a cold shower and get clean. Came in handy here.
We also met the most incredible 15 year old Vietnamese girl who spoke about 5 languages and was just an absolute hustler at dinner. She was a total treat.
Looking forward to seeing this place in the light.
Also see these late pics from the HK light show:
We also met the most incredible 15 year old Vietnamese girl who spoke about 5 languages and was just an absolute hustler at dinner. She was a total treat.
Looking forward to seeing this place in the light.
Also see these late pics from the HK light show:
I am a backpacker
Ok, I'm kind of proud of myself right now. Landed in Da Nang with no
hotel, no ride, no clue, just thinking I wanted to get to Hoi An. Some
girl here asked if I wanted to split a cab so I said sure but could
she suggest a place to stay. She said she had a place for "17" I
figured she meant 170k dong ($170) - she meant $17. And she found the
cheapest cab and found two irish to come as well so we're splitting a
$13 cab 4 ways to hoi an... This is fun.
hotel, no ride, no clue, just thinking I wanted to get to Hoi An. Some
girl here asked if I wanted to split a cab so I said sure but could
she suggest a place to stay. She said she had a place for "17" I
figured she meant 170k dong ($170) - she meant $17. And she found the
cheapest cab and found two irish to come as well so we're splitting a
$13 cab 4 ways to hoi an... This is fun.
Beep beep
Nam is a sea of motorcycles. Its just absolute chaos trying to walk
around Hanoi since they are coming at you from every direction and you
basically just have to pick your spots and trust they won't run you
over.
around Hanoi since they are coming at you from every direction and you
basically just have to pick your spots and trust they won't run you
over.
I'm glad I made the decision to move on from here tonight. While
there's plenty to do, I'm sure, its super hectic and crazy. Flights to
Hue were booked tonight so i'm flying into Da Nang and ending up in
Hoi An tonight. Figure I'll explore a day or two there and make my
next move. I'm totally going whichever way the wind blows me. After I
booked my flight I just put my big bag in a storage locker for the day
and got a taxi to town. While on the way in, the drivers phone rang
and he said it was for me... I answered and some mysterious voice on
the other end asked me where I wanted to go so I told him the train
station. We get to the city center though and pull over to have some
English speaking guy try to figure out my game plan so I bailed on the
taxi and just started exploring. I was not in a tourist area... But it
felt safe enough (as all of Asia has thus far). Wandering has brought
me to a lake and now a small food kitchen down an alley that I'm
writing from right now. I have another 2 hours here before I have to
head back out to the airport. Might go check out Ho Chi Minh's body or
something. Hopefully I make it to my destination (lodging still
unknown) tonight.
The adventure portion I the journey has officially begun...
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
On to Nam
the symphony of lights in HK, which is retarded. Every night at 8 they
choreograph all the neon lights that light every building in the city
and have them interact with the music that blasts over the harbor with
lasers shooting off the tops of the buildings. Just so unnecessary,
yet they do it every night. I was there looking like paparazzi or
something with 2 cameras going. I've given up any attempts to look
cool 99% of the time a while back and have accepted/embraced the fact
that I am a total tourist. Thus was partly necessitated by the fact I
ran out of clean clothes in Shanghai, but I regrouped in HK doing a
load of laundry in my bathtub with a bottle of Woolite I picked up at
the market.
Now I'm on the way to Nam. Since I've been basically a city guy this
whole trip I'm thinking I'm going to just do a stop over in Hanoi for
a few hours to get a taste of it, then head straight to Hue for the
night and get to more peaceful surroundings. Logistically though, I
have nothing lined up so I'll just get to Hanoi and sort it out I
guess. I expect I'll meet a few more travelers like myself in the next
portion if the journey, and would like to try to strategically put
myself in places that will be more conducive to this (vs the Ritz
experience in Tokyo)...
HK consumption- briefly
While Tokyo still holds the crown as having the widest selection of
purchasing possibilities, HK takes it as far as the highest
concentration of super high end luxury goods. People here can be seen
walking around during all times of the day with thousands of dollars
worth of stuff from every major label- label being the key. They are
way into showing off the LV/gucci etc all over their gear. Same goes
for their cars, you name it. Plus every 3 blocks it seems there's
another store for each of these designers, unlike NY where if there's
more than one in the whole city its unique. Just something random
worth noting since it is so noticeable...
purchasing possibilities, HK takes it as far as the highest
concentration of super high end luxury goods. People here can be seen
walking around during all times of the day with thousands of dollars
worth of stuff from every major label- label being the key. They are
way into showing off the LV/gucci etc all over their gear. Same goes
for their cars, you name it. Plus every 3 blocks it seems there's
another store for each of these designers, unlike NY where if there's
more than one in the whole city its unique. Just something random
worth noting since it is so noticeable...
Monday, May 12, 2008
Beaching in HK
Had a great day at the beach here in HK today with a bunch of old and new ex-pat friends. The HK island is so much more than meets the eye for most travelers here, I think. The beach we went to was on the east coast at Big Wave Bay and it was packed with chinese of all shapes and sizes celebrating the national holiday for Buddha's birthday. I'm lucky to have some friends to guide me here since I get the impression the city is short on activities for tourists and it was nice to be brought into the fold with the inside scene. The ride to the beach brought me through some incredible cliff edge narrow roads through the mountains and reminded me a little bit of a tropical riviera-esque ride through the trees.
After 2 weeks in big cities fighting the masses on the pavement surrounded by tall buildings it was such a relief to be out of the hustle and able to relax (and speak with people from home and have real conversations for the first time since I left home).
Afterwards we went to the American Club of Hong Kong, a private ex-pat club with an outpost on the cliffs of the south shore of the island overlooking the bay and surrounding islands. Again, so nice to have a menu of western food to choose from with great views, a good crew of people. Such a relief for me. It was like HK's version of the NYAC for Americans here that offered a touch of home in a place where you need it from time to time.
The more I explore HK the more I get to like it here, as it feels very livable and accommodating to westerners. It will be very interesting to see how things go here as the scope of communist influence widens. One would hope they are able to fend off the type of destruction I've seen elsewhere since this really is such a unique city, unlike any I've ever been to. To have such terrain, beaches, booming big city, etc. all in such a small area is amazing. From the sound of things, all they lack is culture, which is surprising but I guess when most of the population that would enjoy it is transient, its probably tough to gather organized support for these things. Whereas in NY you have all types of charitable groups to supports the arts, etc. here people know there time is limited and thus are less apt to invest the time and effort to arrange these things knowing they won't be here long enough to enjoy the benefits, I suppose.
After 2 weeks in big cities fighting the masses on the pavement surrounded by tall buildings it was such a relief to be out of the hustle and able to relax (and speak with people from home and have real conversations for the first time since I left home).
Afterwards we went to the American Club of Hong Kong, a private ex-pat club with an outpost on the cliffs of the south shore of the island overlooking the bay and surrounding islands. Again, so nice to have a menu of western food to choose from with great views, a good crew of people. Such a relief for me. It was like HK's version of the NYAC for Americans here that offered a touch of home in a place where you need it from time to time.
The more I explore HK the more I get to like it here, as it feels very livable and accommodating to westerners. It will be very interesting to see how things go here as the scope of communist influence widens. One would hope they are able to fend off the type of destruction I've seen elsewhere since this really is such a unique city, unlike any I've ever been to. To have such terrain, beaches, booming big city, etc. all in such a small area is amazing. From the sound of things, all they lack is culture, which is surprising but I guess when most of the population that would enjoy it is transient, its probably tough to gather organized support for these things. Whereas in NY you have all types of charitable groups to supports the arts, etc. here people know there time is limited and thus are less apt to invest the time and effort to arrange these things knowing they won't be here long enough to enjoy the benefits, I suppose.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Out of Shanger on to HK
I'm now in Hong Kong after a very long day. Billings was intent on ensuring I saw the best of what Shanghai had to offer - from what I can gather its predominantly night life. We didn't catch the sunrise the second time around but I only managed an hour's sleep before I had to get out to the airport which made me quite slow/gross today. My final take on Shanghai is it's China lite. Still fully chinese and communist, but the people there sort of pretend it's not making it a fun place, and more of a look into China's future I think. We started the night at the DVD store where I absolutely went to town on illegal pirated DVD's at $2 a pop. Then onward to the Bund for some city views before a hot pot dinner (overrated) and a Italian birthday party (party was lame, Italian girls - the best). As previously mentioned, Tom's insistence upon me having a good viw of the Shanghai scene brought us to a Euro trash club back in the Bund overlooking the river and skyline which was cool. The crowd was absolutely bizarre. People in Shanghai, I noticed, have no acknowledgement of their age and what they should be doing in life as old men/women. At a supposedly cool club you had a number of old men, all likely out to poach young sad asian girls, and an inexplicable crew of mom aged women also. They have no exclusivity in these places, which at first sounds nice, but in practice is terrible when you're going out looking for a good crowd to run with. Anyhow, the night ended with a Hong Kong girl making pathetic advances at me and when I explained to her my flight was in about 3 hours and even if it wasn't, I wasn't going anywhere with her she became so freakily upset that I got scared and we left the club immediately... the best of Shanghai by far is in the slideshow below in the park where parents post descriptions of their children on trees and hundreds of Shanghanese parents go for matchmaking off these ads, it was out of this world.
And just the full Shanghai slideshow here:
Onward to HK, which is a fantastic city. Mind you I've only seen it in this sleep deprived haze I've been in all day, but it just seems awesome. Like a combination of LA, SF and NY - with mtns in the city on an island with an incredible harbor and night life. One thing worth noting also is the clear distinction you can tell in just the look of northern vs. southern chinese. I'm hoping to be more effective touring around tomorrow, though I did make it over to Kowloon today and set myself up with some new shirts. Also looking forward to catching up with some of the Americans I know here tomorrow on Buddha Day, a HK national holiday celebrating the chubby guy's birthday. By the way, HK doesn't censor my internet the same way the mainland and actual China did, which is nice of them.
Some pics of the skyline and some other random stuff here:
And just the full Shanghai slideshow here:
Onward to HK, which is a fantastic city. Mind you I've only seen it in this sleep deprived haze I've been in all day, but it just seems awesome. Like a combination of LA, SF and NY - with mtns in the city on an island with an incredible harbor and night life. One thing worth noting also is the clear distinction you can tell in just the look of northern vs. southern chinese. I'm hoping to be more effective touring around tomorrow, though I did make it over to Kowloon today and set myself up with some new shirts. Also looking forward to catching up with some of the Americans I know here tomorrow on Buddha Day, a HK national holiday celebrating the chubby guy's birthday. By the way, HK doesn't censor my internet the same way the mainland and actual China did, which is nice of them.
Some pics of the skyline and some other random stuff here:
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Shanghai Nights & more communism
Had a night out in Shanghai last night. Crazy place. Started out at a
house party that was entirely ex-pats. All was well until the British
members of the group began to express their US jealousy and started
antagonizing me over the "short but effective" reign of the American
empire. The discussion a. Showed the enormous difference in the way
people are taught history in various places, and b. Gave an
interesting insight into how we are perceived abroad. Incredibly
frustrating interaction being that it was taking place at a cocktail
party at 2am and the main antagonist was the birthday boy, making me
hesitant to fight the way I'd have liked to.
house party that was entirely ex-pats. All was well until the British
members of the group began to express their US jealousy and started
antagonizing me over the "short but effective" reign of the American
empire. The discussion a. Showed the enormous difference in the way
people are taught history in various places, and b. Gave an
interesting insight into how we are perceived abroad. Incredibly
frustrating interaction being that it was taking place at a cocktail
party at 2am and the main antagonist was the birthday boy, making me
hesitant to fight the way I'd have liked to.
I also found a seemingly intelligent Chinese girl that I grilled about
the communist structure. I'm someone who's not particularly political
at all, but being in China has me all charged up. First I cannot for
the life of me understand the mentality of these people who so
universally seem resigned to the belief that the government is what it
is and there is nothing any individual or group can do to fight for
their civil liberties that we take for granted in the US. I have such
a hard time dealing with the lack of motivation to fight against this
government in any way. Lost on them is the belief that they should
look out for eachother and fight for the rights of each individual for
the betterment of the whole nation. Plus the ex-pats seem mildly
brainwashed into thinking things are ok here as well, at least the
British ones I've met. Makes me wonder what more time in the UK would
show me about their government/people.
Maybe this is all overreaction, but I don't think so.
Anyways, after the party we hit a small bar that reminded me of the
otherroom in NY and then an after hours club that didnt open til 4am
for a drink or 2. Places like that just don't exist in NYC, which I
think is a shame. Not because I would have ever gone, but because NY
needs that type of scene to stay interesting, I think. The downside
was that even just a short visit had us leave the club at 5am to full
sunlight... Which is among the most depressing feeling ever to me and
also meant I'd been up nearly 24 straight hours and was absolutely
100% exhausted and showing it. Billings was intent on showing I'd a
good time though so I do appreciate that. Hopefully tonight it body
will be better prepared for a repeat, if it takes place, although I'm
nervous since people have prepared me to not expect much sleep in HK
tomorrow being a long weekend for buddha's birthday. I guess it makes
up for how lame I've been to this point...
Friday, May 9, 2008
Shanghai Impressions
Shanghai could be a different country from Beijing, they feel so
different. The place seems significantly more free, for lack of a
better word. I wandered through some totally old Chinese neighborhoods
down random alleys in the city center surrounding Yu Yuan Garden,
where I spent a few hours walking around. Very cool, old Chinese feel
to the place and its like a maze of buildings and pools with flowers.
Also significant and impressive is the skyline. The buildings are
super tall and very cool, and I expect they look incredible at night.
Having someone here as a mini guide made me let my guard down for the
first time all trip and I forgot my camera in his apartment in my
haste to get lunch so I'm hoping either my iPhone pics or the ones I
took from a disposable I picked up cone out ok. Birthday party for a
friend of Billings tonight, don't know what to expect. Should be good
though.
different. The place seems significantly more free, for lack of a
better word. I wandered through some totally old Chinese neighborhoods
down random alleys in the city center surrounding Yu Yuan Garden,
where I spent a few hours walking around. Very cool, old Chinese feel
to the place and its like a maze of buildings and pools with flowers.
Also significant and impressive is the skyline. The buildings are
super tall and very cool, and I expect they look incredible at night.
Having someone here as a mini guide made me let my guard down for the
first time all trip and I forgot my camera in his apartment in my
haste to get lunch so I'm hoping either my iPhone pics or the ones I
took from a disposable I picked up cone out ok. Birthday party for a
friend of Billings tonight, don't know what to expect. Should be good
though.
Hopefully I'll have some pics to load up either tonight or tomorrow
since some of the imagery here is very unique.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Shakedown Street
The hustling and sneaky charges continued my whole way out of
Beijing... Little things like asking for a taxi to the airport, a car
shows up with a taxi sign on top and after bags are loaded and I'm off
the driveway he tells me its a 'hotel car' so flat fare that's nearly
double the price of a taxi -$20 vs. $10, but still obnoxious. The only
discernable difference in this guy that I find is he speaks a little
English. Normal taxis speak zero. All in all a very interesting and
memorable experience here, made more interesting because of the
Olympic element. Excited to see what differences Shanghai offers.
Beijing... Little things like asking for a taxi to the airport, a car
shows up with a taxi sign on top and after bags are loaded and I'm off
the driveway he tells me its a 'hotel car' so flat fare that's nearly
double the price of a taxi -$20 vs. $10, but still obnoxious. The only
discernable difference in this guy that I find is he speaks a little
English. Normal taxis speak zero. All in all a very interesting and
memorable experience here, made more interesting because of the
Olympic element. Excited to see what differences Shanghai offers.
Heaven, Scorpions & Duck
So I leave Beijing tomorrow morning. As I did a final tour of the city today I was struck by the level of development again, but this time in the sense that they are destroying virtually all the old historic neighborhoods in favor of Olympic related facelifts and rent jacks. At one point I went looking for a street that my guide book suggested exploring as an old market street, listed among the top 20 sights in the city. It was gone, in it's place, this:
It's kind of sad that the country decides only to recognize the ancient history and that involving Mao. Much of it's character will be lost for these Olympics, though they are content to essentially build a new city to show off to the visitors. Perhaps they feel by hiding this history they can show the "new" face of China, but it just seems stupid to me. Communism... I did see a great park today called the Temple of Heaven which was so unlike the rest of Beijing in its wide open natural setting. Very cool. Lots of plants and flowers and old men playing some type of Chinese checkers that is very popular here. Also there were old people playing some game that was a combo of hacky-sack and badminton which seemed cool. They offered for me to play with them but I was suspicious, as I am with every single person in this city. Its shakedown central here. Nobody is to be trusted at all, it seems. That must be part of the Communist theology as well somehow, since Moscow had the same feel although not quite as intense. Jamaica comes to mind as a comparatively hard to trust land also.
Later, I took a walk before dinner to check out an infamous street food market, where the Chinese idea that they'll eat anything with 4 legs besides a table and chairs and anything that flies besides an airplane was on full display... some of the things I didn't even know what to think of them, others I wish I didn't know what they were but unfortunately did.
After this I took some time to regain my appetite and headed to a super nice Peking Duck restaurant which was one of the better meals I've had this trip and the first time in China I had actually attentive service. Whole Duck, Veggies, 2 deserts included and 2 beers - $35. Its astonishing the value you get with food here. Everything for that matter. I continue to be shocked by the fact that the dollar is so strong here, whereas I've been trained about its weakness every other place I've been recently. Maybe it's because their bartenders looked like total freaks that they feel they can only chard $2 a beer?
On to Shanghai tomorrow where I'll finally have some company in the form of Tom Billings, a cagey brit from Dartmouth who I'll be staying with. I will sort of miss the solitude I've been enjoying but there will be plenty more of that once I get to Vietnam/Cambodia, etc.
It's kind of sad that the country decides only to recognize the ancient history and that involving Mao. Much of it's character will be lost for these Olympics, though they are content to essentially build a new city to show off to the visitors. Perhaps they feel by hiding this history they can show the "new" face of China, but it just seems stupid to me. Communism... I did see a great park today called the Temple of Heaven which was so unlike the rest of Beijing in its wide open natural setting. Very cool. Lots of plants and flowers and old men playing some type of Chinese checkers that is very popular here. Also there were old people playing some game that was a combo of hacky-sack and badminton which seemed cool. They offered for me to play with them but I was suspicious, as I am with every single person in this city. Its shakedown central here. Nobody is to be trusted at all, it seems. That must be part of the Communist theology as well somehow, since Moscow had the same feel although not quite as intense. Jamaica comes to mind as a comparatively hard to trust land also.
Later, I took a walk before dinner to check out an infamous street food market, where the Chinese idea that they'll eat anything with 4 legs besides a table and chairs and anything that flies besides an airplane was on full display... some of the things I didn't even know what to think of them, others I wish I didn't know what they were but unfortunately did.
After this I took some time to regain my appetite and headed to a super nice Peking Duck restaurant which was one of the better meals I've had this trip and the first time in China I had actually attentive service. Whole Duck, Veggies, 2 deserts included and 2 beers - $35. Its astonishing the value you get with food here. Everything for that matter. I continue to be shocked by the fact that the dollar is so strong here, whereas I've been trained about its weakness every other place I've been recently. Maybe it's because their bartenders looked like total freaks that they feel they can only chard $2 a beer?
On to Shanghai tomorrow where I'll finally have some company in the form of Tom Billings, a cagey brit from Dartmouth who I'll be staying with. I will sort of miss the solitude I've been enjoying but there will be plenty more of that once I get to Vietnam/Cambodia, etc.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
An Education on China
Today I hired a guide to take me to the Great Wall, which ended up being incredibly interesting as he not only pointed out major sights, etc. but also gave incredible insight into the society here and how it all runs under the communist party. Enjoy the pics, what follows is extensive...
This may be old news to many people but to me it was interesting:
There is no property ownership whatsoever here. The government controls all the land, major corporations lease the land from the government and have ownership rights to whatever is built there. Those leases however only run for 50 years for international businesses (only allowed since 1983) and 70 years for domestic businesses. Residents either live in old, rent stabilized buildings paying a maximum of 100RMB (~$14) per month in rent, or new market rent buildings at about 2,000RMB per month. Because of this disparity, the government is trying to wipe out all the old low buildings that exist in the city and build new buildings in their place, forcing these rent stabilized residents into higher rent buildings - with all the rent being paid to the government... As the government tears down these buildings, residents have built tents where their homes once stood, holding out as long as possible. How do you get into one of the super nice rent stabilized apartments that are built? Party officials and VIP's are assigned to live there - the wealthiest individuals in the country. The 'party' by his account (he supports the government because in doing so you have the ability to benefit from the government or if you're lucky become a party official, it's twisted) sounded sort of like the mafia, where you do everything you can to build connections and establish yourself in society in the hopes of gaining admission and then reaping the benefits and they protect you. The benefits are crazy.
If you're connected, you are tapped into the government policies before they are publicly known. Since the entire nation's business is dependent upon the government policies, this early info allows you to participate in insider trading (not enforced since the one's committing the crime are the one's who would be tasked with punishing for the crime). In a market that's up 600% in the past 5 years, this ability is beneficial... Plus the aforementioned $14 rent, and one can only guess what else.
Even those who build new, private businesses do so in the hopes that it establishes them as a person of importance worthy of joining the party. Another reason why you see political figures going back and forth into private business, since then those private businesses become protected by the government and are essentially able to set up monopolies. I found this whole system fascinating in its corruption.
My first impressions of how nice Beijing looked were also explained today since he told me that essentially every square foot of the visible city has undergone a full makeover in the past 5 years in preparation for the games. All storefronts have been remodeled, streets have been widened, landscaping planted. I saw a totally unbuilt bridge on the way up to the wall today - turns out it is a new highway to the wall that he assured me will be completed within 3 months for the games. Same with half built hotels, etc. that are already booked for Olympic visitors in August under construction on either end of my block right now. Basically, if something needs to be completed, it will be completed, no doubt about it. I see no way that these games don't run exactly according to plan and work seamlessly, they have been an entire nation devoted to its success since they were awarded the games. It's incredible. Look below at the Dragon Tower, Birds Nest Stadium (for the opening/closing ceremonies) and entrance to the Athletes' village - all still incomplete.
Anyhow, the whole visit was enlightening to say the least. Enjoy the photos. I'm still digesting the 25 dumplings I had for dinner for about $7 at some place where not a single person spoke a lick of english and served cups of boiling hot water as ice water. I felt like an alien or something. It was special...
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
The Great Wall of China
I'm headed to the physical wall this morning but the information wall
I've encountered is interesting as I sit here for breakfast and read
the paper. Literally every story in the paper puts a positive spin on
every potential negative issue effecting the people here - inflation
seen slowing, grain prices seen stabilizing, chinese President
welcomed by friends, babies in Japan, Hand/foot/mouth disease being
combatted by govt... Its like a parody. Plus I am unable to access
this site to view it, but can post to it through back door chanels and
when I tried to video chat with my parents last night it wouldn't go
through at all either. The censorship is pretty incredible.
I've encountered is interesting as I sit here for breakfast and read
the paper. Literally every story in the paper puts a positive spin on
every potential negative issue effecting the people here - inflation
seen slowing, grain prices seen stabilizing, chinese President
welcomed by friends, babies in Japan, Hand/foot/mouth disease being
combatted by govt... Its like a parody. Plus I am unable to access
this site to view it, but can post to it through back door chanels and
when I tried to video chat with my parents last night it wouldn't go
through at all either. The censorship is pretty incredible.
The many sides of Beijing...
Day 1 Beijing - Quick thoughts:
Couldn't be much more different from Japan. The people are maybe more genuine, but also way less welcoming and accommodating here. There is the same type of communist feel to the place that Moscow had. People just seem very down to business.
The contrast between old and new is incredible. You have the Forbidden City which is incredible and so expansive acrosse from Tienemen Sq. which is very similar to Red Square in Moscow but in Red Square they have a mall - here they have guards telling you no pictures.
There is construction Everywhere. Everywhere. And not just small apartment complexed, massive developments. THis is the new CCTV tower which is amazing.
It's way cheap/sketchy and everyone is hustling something/somebody. Today I bought 4 Arcteryx jackets for $120, and dinner for $7. Dinner at the place the hotel suggested was closed so I literally wandered down a dark ally and ate street meat and fried noodles (see below - literally this is the place I had diner). Just sort of the way I roll Beijing style.
heading to the Great Wall in the morning. More to come from smoggy China...
Couldn't be much more different from Japan. The people are maybe more genuine, but also way less welcoming and accommodating here. There is the same type of communist feel to the place that Moscow had. People just seem very down to business.
The contrast between old and new is incredible. You have the Forbidden City which is incredible and so expansive acrosse from Tienemen Sq. which is very similar to Red Square in Moscow but in Red Square they have a mall - here they have guards telling you no pictures.
There is construction Everywhere. Everywhere. And not just small apartment complexed, massive developments. THis is the new CCTV tower which is amazing.
It's way cheap/sketchy and everyone is hustling something/somebody. Today I bought 4 Arcteryx jackets for $120, and dinner for $7. Dinner at the place the hotel suggested was closed so I literally wandered down a dark ally and ate street meat and fried noodles (see below - literally this is the place I had diner). Just sort of the way I roll Beijing style.
heading to the Great Wall in the morning. More to come from smoggy China...
China is Big
Arrived at the new terminal 3 at Beijing, which is ridiculously huge
and apparently not getting much use yet. Giant, giant new building
though that alone is bigger that probably 90% of the airports in the
world. You could have a runway inside of it.
and apparently not getting much use yet. Giant, giant new building
though that alone is bigger that probably 90% of the airports in the
world. You could have a runway inside of it.
First impressions of China can be summed up in a word: big. Everything
just seems to be created on an incredible scale. Once again the taxi
driver from the airport had no idea where/what the hotel was so the
adventure contiues in that sense. I did make it without much trouble
though. I'm initially impressed with Beijing. I was expecting sinister
dirty Moscow but instead it feels sort of like vegas a little, though
not nearly as fun to look at. It does smell like a freeway everywhere
and the air is just a constant haze, as everyone's read by now. I'm
conveniently located with the hotel and will explore some of the
ancient places today, wall tomorrow and then the new Olympic stuff
Thursday.
China is way different from Japan already though. Things have a very
mechanical feel and the people, while friendly at the hotel, are
clearly a little less patient and more go, go, go. The comparison as I
continue through these cities/countries should be interesting to follow.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Go GO Swallows!
This morning I woke up to head to the Museum district and was greeted on the subway platform by some sketchy black dude from the '2nd St & Avenue B' but who hadn't been back to NYC in 22 years and from what I could tell just travels the works wherever he feel like with his 'wife' and band mate (he's the drummer in a blues/rap band). It was 10am and he was on his way for a 2 hour subway ride to the beach to meet his wife and kid, coming straight from the after hours club and about '10 drinks deep'. I didn't know what to make of this character, but I humored him for my 25 minute ride as he just talked about all different places and generally characterized places as sweet or 'like Hollywood Blvd at 10pm' which I can't say I understood despite having just been on Hollywood Blvd at 10pm last week.
After a day of museum browsing:
I spent the night with 25,000 fellow Tokyo Yakult Swallows fans (actually half were for the Swallows, half for the hated opponent - the Yomiuri Giants) at Jingu Stadium tonight only to watch my new favorite Japanese baseball team fall to the team commonly referred to the "Tokyo Yankees". The scene was phenomenal. People were going nuts the whole game, banging noise makers and singing special songs for every player and whenever the home Swallows scored the whole stadium breaks out these mini umbrellas and does a whole choreographed umbrella raising dance to celebrate.
Half of the stadium seemed to be set aside for the Giants fans, which seemed appropriately Japanese and polite. Concessions were predictably bizarre with all sorts of noodle dishes and dinner plates that you have no idea what's in them.
The fan favorite was a canadian dude named Aaron Guiel who hit a home run and made a sliding grab the next inning, stoking the already electric crowd. Every time he hit, people broke out Canadian flags, sang the beginning of 'Oh Canada' and then chanted "Go-Go-GuiEL" over and over until his at bat was over. Amazing.
All in all it may have been the most enjoyable experience here. On to Beijing in the morning, excited for a change of scenery, but no complaints about Tokyo and the Japanese in the least.
Krispy Kreme
Check out the scene outside Krispy Kreme Donuts. Probably 100+ people waiting to load up duffel bags with donuts...
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Happy night
Last night for dinner I went back to my favorite area in town called Aoyama. It borders on this Champs Elysee type street filled with all the super nice designer stores which pushed up against the edgier area of Harajaku. I think it compares a lot to the West Village-Soho-LES chain in NYC with Aoyama being like a combo between the West Village and Nolita and the main drag there feeling more like Soho with all the high end stores but cool little streets offshooting from it and working its way into the hipper Harajaku. Walking through the area on a Sunday night was perfect and peaceful. Shops stayed open til 9pm and there were still plenty of people wandering around shopping and eating at that point, but just way less hectic than when I was there last. There are so many good looking restaurants here that are all packed as you wander those streets and if I was guiding someone headed here I'd suggest spending the majority of your time in that area. It seems you can't go wrong there.
Afterwards, feeling a lot more relaxed than I had been, I came back for a drink at the hotel bar which is exactly like the one in Lost in Translation. They sneak a $25 cover charge in for the jazz sax player in the corner playing by the waterfall which is annoying as a hotel guest, but it was just a nice peaceful way to end the day.
Today I'll look to go to the Museum district of Uendo and then later tonight I have tickets to see the Yakult Swallows take on the Yomiuri Giants in Japan's subway series which I'm looking forward to since I miss sports a lot.
Wii's on the Cheap & Speedos
This morning began with the best human interaction of the whole trip so far. I got on the Subway in Roppongi and in my car were to brothers, probably about 5 years old siting down with their mom and dad. One wearing a red Yankees hat, the other wearing a Mets hat. I was also wearing my Mets hat and when the one boy noticed it, he took off his hat, kept looking back and forth between his NY logo and mine and you could tell he didn't know what to think. He probably has no idea what the hat is for (or maybe he does and was psyched to see another Mets fan) or maybe even thought it was just a blue hat with randomly conjoined letters on the front. But seeing this tiny little mini Japanese kid so excited that someone so big and different from him had this hat also and to see him keep looking at me and smiling with embarrassed excitement made my day. It is tough to give the interaction proper explanation, but it was great.
After that ride, I spent the day in the eastern part of the city, beginning with the gardens surrounding the imperial palace. From there I made my way to the ginza area which is essentially 5th avenue Tokyo. All the high end designer shops in crazy architectural buildings. Today was supposedly the busiest holday day of the year so most areas were closed off to traffic and the streets were full of people.
After wandering Ginza and just taking in the people shopping I had lunch at a random restaurant where I ended up with a spicy udon noodle meal. I'm still figuring out the proper way to eat the foods since they give you different tools than I'm used to (not chopsticks... weird big spoons, etc.).
From there I headed to 'Electronic Town' in Akihabara which was a total zoo. More people in one place that you can imagine with noise everywhere with the stores all planting salesmen on the street yelling over microphones to get people to come in. I didn't see anything new or crazy technology wise, unfortunately. If anyone wants a Wii though, they are only $250 and in stock everywhere...
After the day on the streets I headed back to the hotel to go for a swim before dinner. Fortunately/Unfortunately I didn't bring my camera with me to the pool since with no bathing suit (ripped at the beach in LA) I had to borrow one from the spa and I didn't realize until opening the package that Japan is a speedo culture... so I sported that for laps, which was a first. The view from the pool hopefully distracted the few people there from seeing my pasty thighs - it overlooks the whole city and is incredible.
It struck me once again today just how amazing the people are here. I cannot say enough about the way the people go out of their way to do anything and everything for you. They always have a huge smile and treat you like honored company. I had one guy at the gym follow me to the elevator just to make sure nothing came up on my way there and then as I got in he waited across the way and bowed at me until the doors fully shut. They also constantly thank you for allowing them to help you, which seems backwards but gives you an idea of the culture. Looking for a casual meal in Aoyama tonight to counter last night's extravagance.
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